The first technical black crows’ garment which came out in 2015 and which was modernised in 2017, the iconic Corpus 3 L benefits from numerous developments and reappears in a feminine version for the 2019-2020 season. Yorgo Tloupas and Camille Jaccoux review the genesis of this jacket and the major improvements made to this new version.
At a first glance, the new Corpus 3 L does not deviate from its linear filiation. Inspired by the sobriety and functionality of parka jackets, it keeps the same DNA with four big front pockets, a hemline falling into a fishtail at the back with numerous finishing touches like the printed inside seams. However, behind the legacy of the figure lies a real ergonomic revolution with the integration of pre-shaped pieces in the areas which are most sensitive to stretching out of shape, such as the elbows, shoulders or the knees for a complete suit. The implicit objective is to have a completely protective envelope that perfectly follows the movements of the humanoid moving around as if by magic in water crystals.
This wish to radically reenforce the technicality of this jacket is also reflected in the reshaping of the collar which has been raised and isolated from the hood in order to better protect the neck and obtain a better fit of the hood, or in the design of the cuffs where the fastening tab is easier to grab hold of, even with mittened hands. But especially in the general look since the lower front pockets are now angular and the upper pockets have a vertical zip closure. Everything, like the new wrist pocket, are designed to meet all the immediate functional requirements required in the mountains.
Finally, for the rebirth of feminine model, a particularly sensitive attention was paid to the specificities of feminine morphology – unless it is the male morphology that is specific, a question of a point of view. Thus, the greater part of work done was on the ergonomics and freedom of movement which is reflected even more clearly in this version with a fit that reveals a fully adjusted silhouette and a level of comfort that is totally relaxed. A perfect balance between look, protection and freedom of movement.
Genesis of the Corpus 3 L by Yorgo Tloupas.
“The idea, at the beginning, for this jacket was that one could wear a ski-jacket in town. That one could take the bus, train or plane wearing this jacket and that one could wear it skiing the following day. The Corpus was truly designed with this idea of duality. But we knew nothing about clothing, which is why we called upon the designer Camille Kunz. She comes from the fashion world (Chloé prize at the International Festival of Hyères) and has the technical know-how (ex-designer for Mover Sportswear in Lausanne). She is Swiss and a rider. It is she who transformed my amateur sketches in to a technical piece of clothing.”
Dessin original du designer Yorgo Tloupas.
“The other idea at the outset was to go looking into the great classics, that led us to the famous American army’s M65 jacket. It had the functional side that we were looking for. We wanted to make something that was practical, but with a touch of fantasy. For this reason, the strictly utilitarian side of a military jacket was an interesting research angle. But this research of classicism had to become blended with modernity. It had to be both timeless and yet modern. So, we focussed on the details. We kept the surface of the garment and let loose on the details. There had to be several layers to read, each with its own wealth. Notably, we worked a lot on the decoration like the waterproof and printed seams.”
Renforcement de l’allure montagnarde par Camille Jaccoux.
“With this evolution of the Corpus, we wanted to keep the same identity by being even more technical. The aim of this jacket will be best understood by skiers. So we went for a line which was more ‘mountain’ in its aspect and features. We kept the original details such as the fish-tail or the print on the waterproof seams for which I was inspiration came from Japan. Today, if I am not mistaken, we are still the only ones to do this. But it is the whole cut, the positioning of the pockets, the revised air-vents and the reenforced extremities, that makes this armour intended for freeride skiing complete. The essential thing is that this suit, if one takes the matching salopettes, embodies mountain skiing with all its technical and functional requirements. The main work on ergonomics, freedom of movement and all the functionalities like the restructuring of the pockets or the adjustable hood are part of a desire to offer integral ski clothing that is beautiful to wear. Another piece of happy news; we have released it in a feminine version although we had stopped doing so last season. To summarise, with this new corpus 3L, we wanted it to make you want to ski again and again. This may well be an unwavering ally with which to face a very demanding environment. But always with style.”
