If you are planning a ski trip to the South Island of New Zealand, then you are likely planning to land in Christchurch, jump in a car/van/bus and head south to the Southern Lakes ski towns of Wanaka and Queenstown. There you will ski at The Remarkables and Treble Cone and then party till your head hurts.
But here’s the thing.
When you get in that car/van/bus and drive south you might be in fact be driving away from some of the best skiing in the country. With 12 ski fields spread throughout its mountains, the Canterbury region has more places to ski than any other. Many of these ski fields are community owned not-for-profit ‘club fields’, which means they are kind of like socialist skiing communes
At the club fields you won’t find many groomed runs nor any chair lifts, here the lifts are all 1940s-style rope tows which are a simple, terrifying and effective way of getting you up the mountain.
With no nightclubs for 100 kilometres your best options for Après-ski is to either stay the night at one of the club field lodges and drink whatever you have smuggled up, or head to a country pub and listen to hunting stories from and watch a game rugby on TV.
Skiers looking to experience a different style of touring to what they might find in the Alps or North America will find what they are looking for in the riverbeds, forests and glaciers of the Canterbury Alps. While the high glaciated peaks of Aoraki Mt Cook National Park are a natural magnet for ski mountaineers, there are plenty of other less committing touring destinations available to adventurous skiers. With over 900 huts located throughout the NZ backcountry, finding a place to stay the night in the mountains is never hard, but don’t forget to bring your hiking shoes and spare socks for those early morning river crossings and long walks back to the car.
Kiwi winters can be more unpredictable than a Donald Trump Twitter feed, while some storms can cover the entire South Island, other winters will see you skiing a lot of tussock (mountain grass). The good thing is if shit snow is getting you down, you can always ditch the skis and head to one of the many surf breaks along the East Coast, the water will be freezing but nothing a cosy wetsuit, a hot steak pie and flat white coffee can’t fix.
If you focus solely on the snow quality and nightlife, you might be disappointed with a ski trip to little ‘ol NZ, but if you are willing to roll with the punches, earn your turns and are even game enough to swap your Gore-Tex jacket for a wetsuit (and booties) then you will have an adventure that’ll be hard to forget.